Consider checking out the new Mickey Thompson Baja Boss or Yokohama X-MT.” So, let’s talk carriers. But in the slop of the East and Pacific Northwest? Big tread voids are a requirement. “In Moab, a good all-terrain tire will suffice because the rock is dry. “Tires are insanely important,” echoes Guyer. “You’ll have more fun and go farther on a smaller and more aggressive tire, over one that’s simply too much for your drivetrain to handle,” says Driving Line. Your axle might not be able to handle it. As Driving Line points out, just because you can run huge, gnarly tires when building a rock crawler, that doesn’t mean you should. This is where that research element comes in. “There isn’t a steadfast rule for this, as there are dozens of factors to consider (vehicle, suspension, and axle type being among some of the most important).” But don’t over-tire your drivetrain,” explains Driving Line Magazine. The added ground clearance, along with a larger footprint, can do wonders in the dirt.
Low gearing also helps combat the weight of larger tires. “An aggressive set of oversized treads is a great way to help your 4×4 get farther down the trail. Or, go straight to an Atlas at close to $3K until all is said and done (new driveshafts, etc.),” he adds.
#ROCK BOUNCER CHASSIS DESIGN UPGRADE#
You can upgrade a D300 or NP231, but the cost is going to be in the $1K range. “This is why the Rubicon has an advantage over nearly any other stock platform,” explains Guyer. Slipping your clutch is definitely not the way to control your vehicle. Low gearing goes hand-in-hand with rock crawlers for many reasons-one of which is providing precise throttle control when you need to put a tire in just the right spot to clear an obstacle. So, axles aside, let’s talk about the gearing and carrier. If this is something you’re interested in learning more about, check out our piece on Solid Axle Swaps. It’s quite expensive to do, but ultimately it will give you more durability and suspension travel than an IFS can offer. First, you should at least set yourself up with chromoly axles and upgraded u-joints, regardless of the axle type (because, again, good solid axles are your best friend here.) And, second, if you’re working with IFS, you might want to at least consider the idea of swapping to a solid axle. Though, there are two things to consider. What upgrades will you need to make when building a rock crawler? Should you even keep the factory axle? Well, this really depends on what’s under your rig. Nothing ruins a weekend of fun like broken drivetrain parts.” You never want to be that guy on the trail with a broken axle.
“Pull your stock axles and keep them for trail spares. All it takes is a good amount of momentum behind a wheel and a sudden gain of traction for everything to go to hell. “Upgraded axles should be on the short list of any rock crawler,” says Dan Guyer, Category Manager of Wheels and Tires at Keystone Automotive. Rock crawling is like kryptonite to weak axles. So, where to start? Well, the first thing to ask yourself would be whether or not your existing axles can handle the abuse. Today, we’re going to give you a starting point for building a true rock crawler out of your favorite toy. Upgrading a 4×4 to tackle true rock crawling requires thoughtful planning, smart shopping, and a lot of research. Whatever your reason for wanting to step up to the big leagues, it’s important to understand that building a rock crawler -a real rock crawler-requires more than just some gadgets and gizmos that make a rig look trick. There comes a point in time when looking the part simply doesn’t cut it anymore.
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